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What are some
of the common problems with 3rd Gen RX-7s?
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5.1.1 Oil pressure gauge reads 0
psi
Sometimes the connection between the oil pressure sending unit and the wire to the oil
pressure gauge gets loose or dirty. The way to fix this is to clean the metal tab on the
sending unit with some 0000 steel wool, and then re-install the gauge wire using some
electrolytic silicone gel (like some sets of spark plug wires come with) to seal out
grime.
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5.1.2 No boost above 4500 RPM
This is usually caused by a vacuum line coming off of the "Charge Control
Solenoid". The lines sometimes pop off while under boost. The solenoid in question is
located under the upper intake plenum. Look in your shop manual on page F-10, the solenoid
is item F. If a vacuum line has come off here, trim off the end of the line where it has
become loose, and re-attach it to the solenoid. It is helpful to use wire-ties or a dab of
sealant to keep them from coming off again in the future. Motorcycle shops also sell
small, wire clamps that work well.
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5.1.3 Hood squeaks / rattles
Squeaks: Lightly lube up the tops of the rubber hood stops and the latch. Rattles:
Tighten the latch mechanism so it holds the hood to the rubber stops with light pressure.
Latch rattles can also be temporarily fixed by wrapping a small amount of tape around the
latch where it mates with the striker plate.
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5.1.4 Hand brake light
comes on while driving
The switch that controls the parking brake indicator light is located under the leather
brake handle boot. Sometimes during acceleration the hand brake lever moves enough to
activate the light. This problem can be fixed by building up the area of the handbrake
that contacts the switch with a product like JB Weld.
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5.1.5 "Low
Coolant" alarm goes off
The "Low Coolant" alarm goes off when the low coolant sensor is not wet. This
sensor is located on the back side of the aluminum coolant fill housing. Simply top off
your coolant level to quiet the alarm (even though it may already look full).
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5.1.6 Radio flashing
"Err" code
This means the factory radio's anti-theft feature has been triggered. It can be reset
by entering an unlocking code. For obvious reasons, I will not put the code in this FAQ.
E-mail me at tcw@prismnet.com and include your VIN and I will tell you how to unlock your
radio. Your dealership can also do this, but sometimes they charge a fee.
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5.2.1 Hesitation at 3000 RPM
when cold
No known cure. I think it is caused by the double throttle control. Its purpose is to
prevent the engine from getting an overly lean fuel/air mix when you first start to
accelerate. Now the way this system works is that when the engine is cold, (coolant below
175 degrees or so) the ECU opens the double throttle control solenoid, which supplies
vacuum to the double throttle control actuator. This vacuum overcomes the spring tension
that normally holds the double throttle butterfly open, and it closes. Now, think about
what happens when you accelerate.... the engine pulls less vacuum, and starts to go
towards positive manifold pressure as you build boost. With the vacuum going away, the
plate returns to its open (normal when engine warm) position. This helps explain why
the car doesn't hesitate when accelerating hard, and does when accelerating slowly. The
decision by the ECU to operate the double throttle control system is affected by coolant
temperature, and the current "map" that the ECU is using. The Double Throttle
control only happens during starting, cold engine warm-up, and COLD engine with LIGHT LOAD
operation. This map is also affected by the 20k mile switch, which is why many people say
that the car never hesitated at 3000 RPM when it was new. The 20k mile switch does the
same thing that the EL switch does.... it adds base RPM to the motor... which affects the
ECU's decision as to what "map" it is currently operating in. This is just my
personal theory, and may be wrong.
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5.2.2 Paint problems
Some RX-7 owners have experienced problems with accelerated paint chipping and fading.
Mazda has set aside some money to deal with this problem on a case-by-case basis. If your
car has this problem, call the Mazda customer service line (800 222-5500) and ask to
schedule a meeting with your local District Service Manager to have your paint inspected.
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5.2.3 Battery death & leakage
Many people on the RX-7 mailing list have had their batteries die prematurely. The main
cause seems to be excessive heat. Batteries don't do well with heat, and it gets quite hot
under the hood of an RX-7. Hot batteries also tend to leak acid. One solution to this
problem is to buy a sealed battery. Sealed batteries withstand heat and cold much better
than normal batteries, and they do not leak. Sealed batteries cost a little more than
regular batteries, but they also last longer and come with better warranties.
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5.2.4 Brake rotor warpage
Brake rotors warp from excessive heat. Routinely braking hard from high speed, can
cause warpage. Rotors have been replaced under the new-car warranty. The extended
warranties generally don't cover rotors, since they are expected to be consumed with use.
Many netters have had their rotors replaced under warranty.
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5.2.5 Suspension clunk
Cars produced prior to May 31, 1992 came from the factory with noisy upper a-arm
bushings. Your dealership will replace the bushings under warranty with a modified part.
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5.2.6 Cracking factory wheels
Some people on the net have noticed cracks where their spokes join the rim. There seem
to have been two manufacturers of stock rims, one type has a curved area where the spoke
joins the rim, and the other joins at a 90 degree angle. All reported cases of
cracking rims have been on the 90 degree type rims.
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